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WLD1070WLD2070
The learner outcomes for WLD1070 and WLD2070 combine to offer the successful student the Alberta Hunter Education Course credential. Successfully passing this course allows a person to obtain a hunting license in Alberta. These are the outcomes: WLD1070 1. explain game management practices and the role of regulated hunting in game management 2. identify the distinguishing characteristics of Alberta’s ungulates, carnivores, upland birds and waterfowl 3. describe basic equipment and techniques required for safe and comfortable experiences in the outdoors 4. describe the basic parts and safe handling of bows, arrows, crossbows and firearms 5. describe techniques for targeting, handling and dressing game animals in the field 6. explain personal and legal responsibilities of the sports person WLD2070 1. demonstrate knowledge of the basic parts and safe handling of bows, arrows, crossbows and/or firearms 2. demonstrate techniques for targeting, handling and dressing game animals in the field 3. demonstrate the personal and legal responsibilities of the sports person 4. demonstrate safe and ethical practices in the field

Some of the activities covered in this course are also dealt with in more detail in other Wildlife modules.

This module package is a major part of the Alberta Hunter Education Course. Students who successfully complete these modules, WLD1010, and pass the final exam with a mark of 70% are eligible for certification, making them eligible to purchase a hunting license in Alberta.


 * Wildlife Identification **

There are many different ways to group Alberta wildlife. For this course, we will be focusing on game and non-game species. Game species are those species of wildlife which are managed through the Sustainable Resource Development branch of the provincial government. Game species can be further divided into game animals, game birds and game fish. All other non-game species –such as fur bearers, song birds, raptors, shore birds and non-license species – are still under the jurisdiction of the government, but they aren’t considered game. Being able to identify game is the responsibility of every hunter. Shooting a bird or animal, then identifying it is irresponsible. If you can’t identify your game before you shoot, you shouldn’t shoot. Many hunters claim that they can identify deer by the antlers, but it has been proven time and again that antlers are not a definitive way to identify deer. Bear hunters who hunt black bears in areas where grizzly bears are present have an especially difficult task. Incorrectly identifying and shooting a grizzly bear as a black bear can result in tens of thousands of dollars in fines and hunting prohibitions. The ability to correctly identify game prior to shooting is an important skill.
 * //Ungulates[[image:moose_(2).jpg width="276" height="184" align="right"]]//**

Big game animals include the ungulates, and big game carnivores. Ungulates are cloven-hooved animals which are “cud chewers”. These include all of the horned and antlered animals, such as deer, sheep and goats. Ungulates can also be divided by having either horns or antlers – horns are usually kept for the life of the animal while antlers are shed annually – but there are always exemptions. The pronghorn antelope (left) has horns made of fibrous material similar to hair or fingernails, but it sheds the outer sheath of the horns. Deer such as white-tail, mule, elk, moose (above), and caribou all shed their antlers in the late winter/early spring of the year. The woodland caribou is the only species in Alberta in which females often have antlers. The other horn bearing animals of Alberta are the bighorn sheep and the mountain goat.


 * //Carnivores//**

There are five main primary carnivores commonly found in Alberta. These can be divided into bears, dogs and cats – in very general terms. The bears are black bears and grizzly bears, although the hunting season for grizzly bears is currently suspended and under review. Black bears (pictured right), however, aren’t always black. Their coloring can run from black to blonde with every shade of brown and red in between. It is very important to identify a bear by his physical characteristics and not by color. Grizzly bears have a hump on their shoulders, a dished face (like a teddy bear), and very long claws. Black bears have a long, roman nose and short claws. The dog-like carnivores include wolves and coyotes and, although special licenses are not required to hunt them, special conditions are required for harvesting them. The only cat hunted in Alberta is the cougar, or mountain lion. It is unique in that out of all the big game species in Alberta, it is the only one which may be hunted with dogs.

**//Game Birds//**

Game birds are divided into upland game birds and waterfowl. Upland birds can be divided as introduced and native species. Introduced birds are identified by the lack of hair or feathers on their feet. In Alberta these species include the Hungarian partridge, Merriam’s turkey and the Chinese ring necked pheasant. The native species include four species of grouse – sharp tail, ruffed, spruce and blue. There are two species of ptarmigan – the willow and white-tail – which differ from all other upland species because they have a winter plumage which is different from their summer plumage. The final member of the Alberta upland family is the sage grouse (pictured at left), but as of 2010, it has been listed as extirpated in Alberta.


 * //Waterfowl//**

Waterfowl include both ducks and geese, but the American coot and snipe are also included in waterfowl management guidelines. Limits and seasons for waterfowl are controlled by the federal government because these birds migrate between provinces and therefore no one province can hold jurisdiction. In fact, because waterfowl migrate between countries, there are international agreements regarding the management of waterfowl (NAWAMP). Ducks are divided into two categories, those that feed while tipping over in shallow water (puddle or dabbling ducks), and those that dive to depths of up to 10 metres to feed (divers). The most recognizable puddle duck is the mallard, or green head. The provincial duck of Alberta is the northern pintail (left) which nests primarily in Alberta. Other puddle ducks include the widgeon, gadwall, shoveller, and blue wing, green wing and cinnamon teals. Diving ducks common to Alberta range from the tiny bufflehead, the canvasback (king of ducks), ring necked, lesser scaup, red head, ruddy, and goldeneye. The most common of the geese is the Canada goose, which has sub species ranging from giant to lesser. Other species found in Alberta include the white front (speckle belly), snow and tiny Ross’s goose. Two species of swan also pass through Alberta – the tundra and trumpeter – but they are not legal game in Canada. **//Fur Bearing Animals//** There are many game animals in Alberta that aren’t managed through a regular hunting season. Fur bearing animals are harvested through trapping. The seasons, regulations and limits for these species are the responsibility of Sustainable Resources, the same government department that manages fishing and hunting, but there is very little overlap. There are a few species of fur bearing animals that are considered game animals. Coyotes, wolves and bears are the three species which are also under regulation in Alberta hunting regulations. Some other animals, which also fall under fur-bearing status, are also considered nuisance animals and can be dealt with year round. Special regulations apply to landowners who are allowed to hunt/kill some species which endanger, or have negative affect on their properties or livelihood. Some furs are worth more than others, thus making them more desirable as a target species, and these particular species are under stricter regulations. Bobcat, lynx, otter and wolverine must be registered within 30 days of the season’s close. This will allow for setting limits and better managing fur harvests. The most popular animal trapped in Alberta is the squirrel, followed closely by the coyote and beaver. **//Non-Game and Endangered Species//** Not all Alberta wildlife is considered to be a “game” species. Non-game species include songbirds, any birds not specifically listed in the regulations as fair game, and those species which are recognized as protected, endangered, or of any level of concern. Non-game species include everything from crows and magpies to gophers and mice, and can be hunted year round without license. Songbirds, such as robins, wrens, finches and waxwings, are not a game species, but they are protected as songbirds. It is a good idea to check with wildlife enforcement officials before hunting or shooting any questionable species. Some of the endangered species found in Alberta haven’t always been endangered. The wood bison, grizzly bear, and woodland caribou (pictured left),were all legally hunted or trapped game at one time in Alberta’s history. In fact, the wood bison has recently been added to the special draw license application for Alberta to help deal with overpopulation issues in one part of northern Alberta.

A specific terminology has been developed to describe the population situation of any given species. The most final and permanent term is extinct, meaning there are no more of that species – anywhere. Next is extirpated, meaning they are no longer found in some of their native ranges, but exist in others. From there, classifications go to endangered, vulnerable, conservation dependent, near threatened and of least concern.

Equipment

Having the proper equipment for an outdoor excursion can be the difference between life and death. Being prepared both physically, mentally and in your equipment can make dealing with all manners of adversity that much easier. That being said, if you don’t know how to best use the equipment you have at hand, it won’t be of much use. If one statement could sum up the way to dress for an excursion, “dress in layers” would be it. It is always best to dress in several light and medium layers when you are going to be in an activity where physical exertion is likely. If you know you will be working hard enough to break a sweat, remove some layers to allow perspiration to escape. A windproof-waterproof outer layer is always a good idea to protect the layers underneath. In cold weather, mitts are better than gloves when it comes to warmth. The two most important parts of any outdoorsman’s outfit are footwear and headgear. Shoes or boots which provide support, grip, and protection from the elements and terrain are the best. Never “break in” a pair of shoes on a long excursion. Proper headgear for an outdoor excursion will protect your eyes from sun and branches, control the heat which escapes from your head, and increases your visibility to others.
 * //Clothing//**


 * //[[image:1290525115546-1596737121.jpg align="left"]]Shelter//**

It doesn’t take much to be comfortable in the outdoors. All you need is a tarp, rope and some trees and you can build a solid structure to protect you from all but the harshest weather. When selecting a site for a shelter, several things need to be considered. Shelters shouldn’t be built in low spots, or on paths frequented by wild animals. The prevailing wind – usually coming from the north – should also be noted. It is never a good idea to build with the wind blowing directly into a shelter, but at an angle is acceptable. Other dangers, such as dead trees with broken limbs, rock faces with loose boulders, and creeks with multiple high-water marks should all be carefully considered when selecting a site.

There are many different types of temporary shelters which can be built using a minimum of materials, but all basically involve covering a basic frame with either a tarp or number of branches to provide shelter. When using branches, it is important to orient them with the butt end of the branch pointing upwards. This allows the natural shape of the needles or leaves to point towards the ground and aid in shedding water, as opposed to trapping it. More heat can be reflected into the shelter by building a reflector on the far side of the fire. It doesn’t need to be reflective materials, heat will bounce off of it and into the shelter and make sure it isn’t too close to the fire.

If you are in a survival situation and don’t have a sleeping bag, elevating yourself off of the ground with a pile of evergreen boughs will stop heat loss into the ground. If you have enough tarp or plastic material, it is advisable to include a ground sheet, or floor pan, to prevent moisture from affecting you from the bottom. It is also a good idea to scrape a shallow trench around the perimeter of your shelter to act as a moat and carry water away from the outside edge. Rope is the easiest way to tie components together, but you can use string, fishing line, shoe laces, small willows, supple branches or twisted grass will also work. Learning how to tie some basic knots can make rope work much easier.


 * //Sleeping Equipment//**

The most basic sleeping equipment is a sleeping bag. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors and construction, each of which as advantages and disadvantages. Sleeping bags are measured by the lowest temperature that is recommended for using that bag in a tenting situation. The lower the temperature, the heavier and larger the bag is going to be. Lighter bags can often be used in colder temperatures with the addition of flannel sheets and/or blankets to the inside of the bag, increasing the insulation value. There are different types of insulation used in sleeping bags. Down insulation provides high insulation value, but doesn’t handle moisture well - it tends to compact and lose its effectiveness. Synthetic insulation generally doesn’t have the same issue with moisture, but it can be expensive and prone to lumping and losing general effectiveness in some areas of the bag.

If the bag itself can be kept off the ground, two things are accomplished. First, the heat given off by the human body will not be as readily absorbed by the colder ground. Secondly, if the layer between the bag and the ground is insulating – like foam or air – the sleeper can gain a certain amount of comfort. The same amount of insulating value and comfort can be obtained by layering spruce boughs in the sleeping area and placing the sleeping bag on top. In all cases of using the sleeping bag it is advisable to put a groundsheet made of plastic underneath to stop the absorption of moisture from the ground, plants, or any rain or moisture.

Packs are available in many designs suitable to a variety of tasks. Packs with interior frames are generally more comfortable to wear for extended periods, while external frames can be modified for use as packboards if needed. Packboards are generally used for heavy loads or large pieces of equipment, but they aren’t generally made for comfort. Packsacks, rucksacks, and day packs are different names for smaller, frameless packs which are designed for short duration packs where comfort and small size are preferred over versatility and volume for packing. Heavier packs will have both shoulder straps and a waist, or kidney, belt which helps distribute the weight between the shoulders and hips. Very heavy packboards will occasionally have tump lines which allow for the weight to be distributed with the head/neck as well. Packing for an excursion can make a big difference in the size and comfort of the pack. Heavier items are packed at the bottom and lighter items to the top, allowing for a more centrally distributed weight. Pockets on the outside of the pack should hold emergency gear, rain gear and food to avoid rummaging in a full pack on the trail. Straps on the outside of a pack should be used for holding larger singular items like sleeping bag, tent, axe, or rifle. When packing clothes, roll the items tightly as opposed to folding. This takes up less room and makes for easier weight distribution. Fanny packs are a pack which attaches at the waist. It is has a smaller volume than any other type of pack, but is easy to carry and wear and is suited very well for the day hike. They often come with water bottle holders and numerous compartments ideal for storing emergency supplies and equipment, ammunition and often used items like maps, compass and GPS.
 * //Packs//**
 * //Knives//**

A good knife can be a life saver. As it is with many things, you get what you pay for. A cheap knife may feel sharp, but the edge may not last. A folding knife may feel tight and lock firmly in the store, but may loosen quickly with moderate use. There are some very simple guidelines for selecting a good knife for outdoor activities. The length of the blade should be no more than 10cm (4 inches) long. Long blades tend to break easier because higher leverage can be reached. A sheath knife is preferable to a folding knife as there is no weak point, such as a hinge, to break and leave you with two useless pieces. A full, through tang will allow you to keep using a knife if the handle pieces (scales) break off or are lost. The quality of multi-tools is improving, but they still have the hinge action which can be problematic with all folding knives. However, the benefit of multi-tools is that they offer several other tools which may be useful, including more than one knife blade. Their size and weight is often a concern to many people as they are quite bulky and not comfortable to hold or carry.
 * //Axes//**

The axe is commonly referred to as the most important tool and outdoorsman can have. It can accomplish many chores, from cutting down trees to skinning animals if cared for and used properly. The biggest danger, however, comes from improper use. Axes require strength and a practiced eye when it comes to large cutting tasks, such as splitting firewood and cutting down trees. Experienced users work carefully and in control of their axe at all times, and make sure no part of their body is in line with the axe in case they miss their target or swing through it. Over-swinging or missing the wood and hitting the handle is the most common way to damage an axe handle. Fiberglass handles are more durable than wooden handles, but are very difficult to make emergency repairs on. Loose axe heads need immediate attention to prevent the head from coming off during use. The most useful axe is one that has a cutting edge on only one side and a pounding face on the other. Ideal weight for a general purpose camping/outdoors axe is between two and two and three quarters of a pound – that being the weight of the head only. Sharpening an axe should be done with a file and/or an axe stone. The axe head should never be thinned out by grinding or removing too much material. This can cause it to bend or break under moderate or heavy use.


 * //Maps and Compasses//**

Getting lost may sound like an inviting challenge, but the reality of getting lost is unpleasant and disturbing. Knowing where you are in an urban setting is not difficult – all you have to do is look for a street sign. Knowing where you are in the wilderness is more difficult. People have gone for short walks thinking they can always judge their location by looking at large landmarks – like a mountain, lake or river – but fail to realize that when you are in a forest, you can’t see very far and the reality is you could be standing on a mountain and not realize it. Having an accurate map of the territory you will be in and a reliable compass that you know how to use will make sure you can find your way out. Compasses come in different styles and shapes, but all of them point to “magnetic north”. This north isn’t the true North Pole, but the actual top of the world. The farther north you are in the world, the more important it is for you to compensate for the difference between the North Pole – which maps are drawn in reference to – and the magnetic north pole. This difference is called //declination//. Navigation with a compass involves determining a direction of travel based on a relationship to north – these directions are called //bearings//. Plotting a course to travel between two points involves determining the direction, setting the compass to that direction, determining a landmark to walk towards, and then re-determining your direction from that point forward. Technology has replaced the standard compass with a global positioning system (GPS). These electronic devices work through the process of triangulation based on satellite positions. Information is received from satellites, processed by the GPS, and a general position is determined. The more satellites the unit can access, the more accurate the position will be. The drawbacks to GPS navigation include being able to read and operate the unit, an inability to contact satellites due to weather or terrain, the fragile nature of electronics and the dependency on batteries. There are other electronic devices which operate on the idea of backtracking to an origin point. When leaving a known location, a person would indicate this as a home location in the device and then embark on their adventure. When ready to return, they would turn the device on and it would give a distance and direction to the starting point, but only as the crow flies and not compensating for terrain or the route initially taken. Emergency locator beacons that send out satellite signals indicating the position of a lost person are also available, but general emergency beacons can often create large scale operations for relatively simple problems, resulting in significant financial implications on the person being rescued. Satellite communications allow people contact with the outside world the same as they would with a cell phone. Tracking these devices are possible and are a good option to emergency beacons. A survival situation can arise at any moment. A simple walk through a well-travelled park can be turned into a survival situation because of a storm. Having a boat capsize during a canoeing trip, suffering an injury, becoming lost or disoriented because of a variety of reasons – all of these can result in a survival situation. The best thing you can do to handle a survival situation is be prepared. Having the proper equipment with you can allow you to make it through your situation with ease, but knowing how to handle the situation and understand the feelings you will be exposed to is most important. Most survival situations last less than 72 hours and rarely more than 5 days. The most important action you can take is to STOP!!!! Stop, Think, Observe, Plan. Remain calm and make a plan as to how to best handle your situation without making it worse. It is important to resist the urge to travel any further once you have determined that you are in fact lost. Stay where you are and wait for help. There are a variety of factors which will come to bear on you and your survival situation. If you are able to recognize these factors and handle them appropriately.
 * Survival**

//PAIN// is the first thing you need to deal with. If you are hurt, or hurting, losing blood, or have suffered an injury of any sort, deal with it first. If you are going to bleed to death before you can build a fire, there won’t be any need to build a fire. Treat any wounds, stabilize any injury and begin planning your next move. //COLD// is a very serious threat which needs to be addressed immediately. Tending to food or water needs are secondary to the damage that hypothermia can cause. If you are exposed to wetness, wind, and cold – even in general temperatures which may not be considered cold – you need to deal with them before taking any further steps. Building a fire and constructing a shelter are two great first steps to a successful survival situation. //THIRST// can seem very important and something you can’t avoid, but in fact, most people can survive for a couple days without water if they are in normal good health. Once the basic needs of survival are met – health, fire and shelter – then seeking out a water source can be undertaken. In the case of a winter survival situation, having fire will allow you to melt water while staying warm. //HUNGER// may make you feel uncomfortable, but the fact is eating really isn’t that important. The majority of people can survive on their body fat for as long as thirty days. //FATIGUE// is simply being so tired, you can’t think straight. If you don’t stop when you realize you are lost, the combination of fear, fatigue and adrenaline can cause you to make poor decisions. It is important to acknowledge your situation, STOP, and take a few minutes to rest before starting your survival preparations. //BOREDOM & LONELINESS// can easily affect your thinking and be the basis for making some rash decisions. If you have been lost for a period of time and have had the opportunity to sit, think and wonder about some “what if’s?”, you may start to substantiate some actions which may get you into deeper trouble. Keeping your hands busy while waiting for rescue also keeps your mind busy and away from making poor decisions. //FEAR// comes in many forms. Some fears are substantiated by your predicament, such as fear of animals and the unknown, but some fears are mental and not based in fact. It may be true that wild animals, weather and death are valid fears, but they can all be greatly reduced once you have fire and shelter established. Some fears aren’t realized until you are rescued. Ridicule, guilt, and punishment may be experienced upon a safe return, but they shouldn’t be allowed to affect your survival situation. It is hard to not think about being rescued, but keeping your thoughts positive will go a long way to alleviating fears. **Survival Equipment** In any survival situation, what you need to survive is what you have to use. Sometimes you may have a full pack with food and shelter, but many instances will find you without a full pack and you will need to rely more on your wits and knowledge than the variety in your equipment. The best way to be prepared for any emergency, or survival situation, is to carry a survival kit, or at the very least, some of the items that would be found in a survival kit. ||
 * Complete with a button compass, night light, flint/striker, whistle cutter, match book, pencil, wire saw, sewing kit, snare wire, water purification tablets, safety pins, fishing kit, survival Instructions and accident evaluation this combat survival kit will have you living Swiss Family Robinson in no time.

The most important item in a survival kit is having what you need to start a fire. Fire offers warmth, protection, comfort, light and a signal source. A lighter, strike anywhere matches, flint and steel, or a lens could all be used to start a fire. Knowing how to start a fire with a fire drill or fire plough would also work and they don’t require any tools. Starting aids like cotton, pocket lint, jean fuzz and petroleum products (like lip balm) can also be used to help get a fire going. The most important thing to have when needing to start a fire is the knowledge how to start a fire. Pocket sized survival kits can carry a wide variety of items which will meet a variety of needs. Cord, fishing line and snare wire can be used for their intended uses, but also for building a shelter, making a weapon, or repairing damaged equipment. Heavy duty aluminum foil can be used for signaling, cooking food, boiling water, or reflecting heat. Safety pins can be used for fishing, repairing equipment, and removing splinters or cactus spines. Most items that can be carried in a survival kit have multiple uses. One part of every outdoorsman’s kit that can be duplicated in a survival kit, but rarely to the same degree of effectiveness is the knife. Every person that goes into the outdoors should carry a good quality, well build, sharp knife. The best place for the knife is around your neck so you are always aware of it, but securely carried in a proper belt sheath is also acceptable. A good knife can be the difference between life and death in a survival situation. Used carefully and safely, a knife can cut down small trees, split firewood, spark a flint, create tinder, skin an animal and many more important tasks.

A unique way to carry survival items is sewn into the lining of a vest. Take the items – such as matches, foil, cord, cotton, first aid supplies, etc., and carefully package them as flat as possible. Wrap them in tape to protect them, or seal them in small packages using a vacuum sealer generally used for preserving food. These packages can either be sewed in an unused pocket or slipped inside the lining and held with a few stitches or even duct tape. All that needs to be done when the parts are required is to remove a few stitches and access the materials. Wearing a survival kit is a lot easier than remembering to put it in your pocket. **Survival Techniques** The most important technique to master before going into the outdoors is fire starting. Being able to find appropriate materials, build the right fuel supply and start a fire quickly and efficiently is an art that needs to be practiced by everyone who ventures into the outdoors. Starting a fire in wind, rain, and snow and keeping it going can be the difference between surviving or not. It is difficult to carry enough material in a survival kit to build a shelter. Instead, you will need to find or build some sort of protection from the elements using what is around you. Blown down trees, caves, log piles or packed snow drifts can all provide adequate shelter. The most important thing to consider in building a shelter is the direction of the prevailing wind. You don’t want to build a shelter in such a way that the wind, rain or snow will be constantly blowing on you, or blowing the heat away from your fire. Keeping your body off the ground by laying on a bed of evergreen boughs or grasses will keep you warmer and away from any cold or moisture in the ground. A debris hut makes use of any found materials leaned against a ridge pole to create a small space protected from the elements. If a piece of plastic is available to first drape over the ridgepole, the shelter itself could be very weather proof. Building a fire is the best way to signal your location to searchers. They will be able to see the flame at night and the smoke during the day. A regular fire that provides heat and light may be enough to be seen from the air, but a proper signal fire is able to provide massive amounts of smoke in a very short period of time. Learning how to build a free-standing signal fire which can be lit and smoking in less than a minute is your best chance to send out a signal which can be seen for miles. Ground signals are those which can be seen from the air and provide searchers with specific information. These signals can be stamped into snow or created with branches and boughs. If small ground signals are being used, laying tree trunks, rocks or piles of snow in the shape of the signal may also be used. The international signal for distress is SOS. Any pilot who encounters this symbol is required to report it to authorities at the earliest opportunity. The sound signal for SOS is three of anything repeated at intervals – three blasts on a whistle being the most common. Obtaining water is very important for any survival situation which lasts over 24 hours. The human body needs between 2 and 3 litres of water every day. It is important to drink even though you might not be thirsty. The key to drinking water from a found source is to purify it. The best way to remove contaminants is to filter it through a piece of cloth to remove large debris, then to boil it for at least one minute. Eating snow to obtain water is not advisable as the energy required for your body to melt the snow is significant and it will contribute to lowering your body temperature. Building a solar still is a simple yet effective way to obtain water. Knowing how to set up a solar still in any environment and practicing it beforehand would be beneficial to anyone who may face a survival situation. A solar still involves catching the condensation from the earth and/or plant matter on the underside of a plastic sheet and collecting it in a vessel on the bottom of the hole. Condensation doesn’t need to be boiled or treated before drinking and if you have a plastic tube which will reach the catch-vessel, it will allow you to drink from the container without having to disturb the plastic and loose valuable condensation.

Eating isn’t as major a concern as one might think. Most people can live on their body fat for up to a month. Eating in a survival situation is not that important, but your body will convince you that you need to be eating. It is not a wise idea to eat any plants or berries which you cannot identify. Mushrooms are especially dangerous and can cause great sickness if the wrong ones are eaten. Living off the land by eating wild plants is a great hobby that can pay dividends if you end up in a survival situation, but experimenting while in a survival situation is not advised. **First Aid** Anyone going into the outdoors should have at least a basic knowledge of first aid. There are a variety of first aid courses available through different organizations. Most basic courses will teach about controlling bleeding, handling breaks and sprains, treating for shock and hypothermia, giving artificial respiration, treating burns and blisters and administering CPR. Certification must be kept up to date in all courses and other additional courses are available, such as advanced first aid, wilderness first aid, and first aid specifically for lifeguards, ski patrols and mountain rescue teams. First aid kits should be a part of every person’s daily life – whether they are kept in a vehicle, desk, backpack or purse. Each kit’s design will depend on where the user expects to encounter a first aid situation. People spending time in the outdoors can tailor their kits to injuries that would commonly be encountered in that terrain. For example, people who spend time in cactus country should have tweezers, or forceps, for removing spines, and those who travel in mosquito country should carry an AfterBite pen, or similar topical treatment. Anyone who requires special medicine on a regular basis, or has serious allergic reactions to anything that might be encountered in the travelling area, should carry a supply of their medicine and make sure all members of the group are aware of their health issues. **This checklist is by no means comprehensive, but a basic overnight first aid kit could include the following items:** > **//It is always advisable to have completed a first aid course if you are going to spend any amount of time in the outdoors. There are, however, some very basic treatments for some very common injuries which everyone should know.//** BLEEDING - If a person suffers a wound that is bleeding excessively, apply pressure with a clean cloth. Keep the pressure on for at least five minutes. This will allow the blood a chance to clot and the bleeding to stop. If possible, elevate the part which is bleeding while keeping pressure on it. Never remove an item which may be lodged in the wound – such as a stick or arrow – but instead wrap it in cloth and apply pressure around it. SHOCK – A person who has been exposed to a traumatic situation or injury will often suffer shock. Symptoms can become obvious immediately, or it could happen hours later. Symptoms of shock include pale, cool and clammy skin, perspiration, feeling faint and rapid pulse. Treatment should be given, even if the patient think they are in shock. They should lie down, keep warm and, if possible, keep their head slightly lower than their body – unless they have serious injuries. SPRAINS – Sprains occur when ligaments, tendons and/or muscles are stretched or moved excessively or unnaturally. The treatment is similar to a broken bone. Immobilize the sprain in a splint of some sort, elevate for at least 24 hours, and if possible, apply cold compresses. The elevation and compresses help control swelling, and can be continued until there is no swelling or formal medical treatment is available. A common way to remember what to do to a sprain is RICE – Rest, Ice(cool), Compression(wrap it), Elevation. CONCUSSION – A person can receive a concussion after a blow to the head. Symptoms can be as mild as a stiff neck or head ache, but could be as severe as blood coming from the ears and mouth, or a clear fluid coming from the nose and ears. Treat the person as though they are in shock and secure immediate medical attention. BURNS – A very common injury when using open flame of any sort is burns. The most dangerous part of a burn is the shock that can accompany it. Immerse the burn area in cold water – if possible – and cover it with a clean dressing. If clothing or material is stuck to the burn, do not attempt to remove it. The cool water will help relieve the pain and medical treatment should be sought immediately. If the area blisters, do not burst the blister.
 * Bandages: Assorted sizes for small cuts, blisters, etc.
 * 4-inch closure strips or butterfly closures: For closing large wounds. 4-inch strips are more effective than butterfly.
 * 4 inch by 4 inch sterile dressing pads (5 to 10): To apply pressure to a wound and stop bleeding
 * Non-adherent sterile dressing (2 inch by 2 inch): Use these or Second Skin to cover blisters, burns or lacerations.
 * Gauze roll: Holds dressing in place.
 * Small roll of 1-inch adhesive tape: Holds dressings in place.
 * Multi-use tool or knife: Should include knife, scissors. A scalpel and blade are also useful for first aid.[[image:first_aid_kit_pict.png width="345" height="242" align="right"]]
 * Forceps or tweezers: For removing splinters, ticks, and removing debris from wounds.
 * Scissors: Trauma scissors, which have a blunt end to protect the patient, can be used for cutting away clothing from injury, cutting medical tape, etc.
 * Malleable splint: Lightweight foam-covered aluminum, such as a SAM splint.
 * Irrigation syringe (35 cc): Used to flush and clean wounds.
 * Safety pins: Can help remove splinters, fasten arm sling, or make a whole in a plastic bag for improvised wound irrigation.
 * Cotton-tip swabs: For removing foreign objects from eye, or applying antibiotic ointment.
 * Resealable plastic bags: Many uses, including icing a swollen joint or creating wound irrigation device.
 * ACE, Coban, or other rubberized bandage: Can be used as outer wrap on splints, wound dressings or support for joint injuries. Be careful not to wrap too tightly.
 * Antiseptic towlettes: For cleaning small wounds.
 * Cleansing pads with lidocaine: For cleaning. Includes a topical anesthetic for abrasions, stings, etc.
 * Topical antibiotic ointment: For application to wounds. Simple Vaseline can also be used in dressing a wound.
 * Moleskin: Prevents blisters. Cut and apply a section to your foot as soon as you discover a “hot spot.” Duct tape also works for this purpose.
 * Povidone Iodine USP 10 percent, 1 oz.: For preventing infection. Bottled PVD iodine 10 percent solution should be diluted to a ratio of 1 percent or less for flushing wounds.
 * Aloe vera gel: Found in packets or small bottles for relief of minor burns.
 * Pain relievers, including aspirin and Ibuprofen: Provides relief for minor aches and pains, reduces fever, helps reduce inflammation of sprains and other injuries.
 * Antihistamines: For relief of pollen allergies, or to reduce reaction to bites and stings.
 * Immodium 2 mg capsules or tablets: For relief of diarrhea from intestinal infections.
 * Pepto Bismol or antiacid tablets: For relief from general diarrhea, abdominal upset.
 * After Bite or hydrocortisone cream USP 1 percent: Relieves skin irritation from bites, poison oak, stings, or allergic reactions.
 * Latex or nitrile gloves: Protects against blood-borne diseases and infection.
 * Oral rehydration salts: Packet of electrolyte salts and glucose for treatment of dehydration, heat exhaustion, or loss of fluids from vomiting or diarrhea.
 * Space bag/blanket: Lightweight emergency shelter. For treating hypothermia victims.
 * Paper and pencil: For recording medical data such as body temperature, pulse, time and date of symptoms, injuries, medicines administered, etc. Most repackaged kits include accident report forms.
 * Wilderness First Aid booklet: Many prepackaged first aid kits contain one. Many pocket sized first aid books are available on the internet or through first aid providers.

BLISTERS – Blisters occur when skin is abraded by a moving object, or clothing, over time. A red blister can form and it can become very painful. Breaking the blister that is formed can be dangerous and increase the chances of infection. If the blister breaks, clean it very well and keep it covered with a sterile dressing or bandage. Don’t expose the broken blister for any period of time until a new layer of skin has formed. Pain and inflammation can be eased by soaking the blistered area for up to 30 minutes, three or four times daily in hot water. The jagged skin from a broken blister should be carefully trimmed to avoid catching and tearing, but should still be covered with a dressing or bandage. BITES – Bites come from animals, insects and even people, and they all should be treated similarly. The bite area should be kept clean and the bleeding controlled. In the case of insect bites, application of a topical antihistamine can help control swelling and itching, but care must be taken that no stinger remains in the bite. Animal and human bits can transmit a variety of diseases – such as rabies or tetanus – and care must be taken to monitor the healing of the bite and have the bite checked by a physician as soon as possible. FROSTBITE – When a part of the body freezes, it is referred to a being frostbitten. The most common parts to get frostbite are the extremities – ears, fingers, toes, cheek, nose – and it can be identified by first appearing flushed, then a grayish-yellow. It may be painful, but it is often just numb. Do not rub the frozen part. Slowly warm the frozen part by putting it against a warm part of your body. As soon as possible, warm the part by immersing in warm water or covering with warm compresses. DO NOT USE HOT WATER. Once thawed, keep the body part warm and avoid going outside into the cold right away. Re-freezing the part can kill the tissue and cause serious damage.

HYPOTHERMIA – This condition occurs when the inner body temperature drops more than two degrees Celsius. Symptoms of hypothermia include: uncontrollable shivering, slurred speech, confused language, fumbling, clumsy walking, drowsiness, and exhaustion. The dangerous thing about hypothermia is that the body loses more heat than it can produce and the body’s energy supply will rapidly be depleted. A decrease in body heat/energy can result in lowered ability for internal organs to function properly. Even mild hypothermia can be dangerous!!! Get the hypothermic person to shelter and begin warming them by removing any wet clothes and exposing them to heat through warm compresses and putting them in a sleeping bag. If possible, warm the person with your body, especially if you are in an exposed area or unheated space. Over time, have the patient drink warm drinks or soup. This will help warm from the inside out. NEVER GIVE A HYPOTHERMIC PERSON ALCOHOL. This can mask their symptoms and cause further damage. Medications that a person needs to take regularly should also become part of a personal first aid kit. It is important to realize that many prescription medications – as well as many over the counter medications – have expiry dates on them, so they need to be rotated regularly. Other broad spectrum medications and prescription drugs are beneficial to include in a first aid kit, depending on the nature of the user, activity, duration and location. These include an antihistamine, like Benadryl, for treating allergic reactions; Imodium for diarrhea; a broad spectrum antibiotic for fighting an infection; or a pain reliever like Tylenol or Advil. Most physicians will give advice as far as medications which may be included in a first aid kit.

Different regions will present different medical concerns. Poor access to good drinking water can result in cryptosporidium, giardiasis, and other waterborne illness. Some countries are prone to insect borne diseases like malaria and yellow fever, so it is necessary to be inoculated against these disease before going to these countries. Other concerns are hepatitis, cholera, typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, tuberculosis, schistosomiasis – most of which can be prevented with education and preventative medicines. It is important to understand the area you are going to and the dangers that you could encounter. Most injuries can be prevented. Make sure you are familiar with the terrain you are going to be travelling to, the dangers it presents, how to best prepare for the weather, and how to handle any emergencies you may encounter. There are some very basic steps you can take to make sure your outdoor excursion is the safest and worry-free it can be: > > > **Being Prepared** Having the right equipment and knowing how to use it is only part of the outdoor experience. Being mentally and physically prepared for your activity is equally important. There are several aspects of preparation you can take to make sure everything is as good as it can be before heading out. VISION – Make sure your eyes are giving you the whole story. Regular eye examinations can make sure your eyes are seeing all there is to see, and there are no looming problems which could erupt while outdoors. Being able to clearly see and identify wildlife, maps, weather patterns and details near and far is very important It is just as important being able to read the measurements on a map as it is to be able to identify between species of deer or ducks. If glasses or contacts are part of your life, make sure they are in good repair and that you have a spare set, or at least a repair kit when possible. Sunglasses are equally important if you are going to be in the sun for any extended period of time. Not only do they make it possible to see better during the brightness of the day, but they help reduce eye fatigue which can be potentially crippling at night. PHYSICAL FITNESS – If you are aware of your physical limitations and plan your outdoor experience accordingly, you will be much more likely to have a positive adventure. Planning to climb mountains while chasing sheep or caribou when you can’t walk to the post office without becoming exhausted might not be the best idea. Work within your limits, or improve your limits. Getting ready for outdoor adventures can be a great reason to get in shape and build strength and stamina. Make sure, however, that a good physical examination is part of your physical preparedness plan, and that any health concerns are addressed. Responsibilities Being a responsible hunter, or outdoors person, means that you have to understand a great deal. It isn’t just a matter of being able to identify species, or gather the right equipment, or plan an excursion. Being responsible also involves being able to understand your role in the outdoors, in managing and being a good steward in the wilderness, the ethics you demonstrate when involved with the outdoors and the importance of being
 * //Always tell someone where you are going// – Leave a map, timeline, instructions, contact instructions and itinerary with someone who is trustworthy[[image:hiking-gear.png align="right"]] and is willing to make sure you arrive home safely. Make a plan and FOLLOW IT!!!
 * //Dress for the forecast AND THE OPPOSITE// – Dress in layers, carry spare clothes, prepare for precipitation in whatever form the season will deliver.
 * //Carry the proper survival and first aid equipment// – If you have it and don’t need it, you won’t miss it. If you need it and don’t have it, you will be sorry.

“Be The Expert” Assignment - Undertake an in-depth study of an Alberta species from each of three of the natural regions; compare the physiology, behavior, habitat, and specific regional adaptations of each; create a food web for one species; present to the class on one species as coordinated with the instructor.(WLD1020)

“Big Game Comparison” Assignment - Make a chart of 6 big game species in Alberta; note regions found, season, limit, specific requirements for hunting (male/female, 3-point, etc.); special registration requirements (WLD1070)

or

“Game Bird Comparison” Assignment - Make a chart of upland game birds of Alberta; compare plumage, size, habitat, hunting limits, and special regulations (WLD1070)

or

“Waterfowl Comparison” Assignment - Make a chart of 8 species of waterfowl in Alberta; compare plumage, habitat, hunting limits and special regulations (WLD1070)

The only assignment for these modules is the Alberta Conservation & Hunter Education Program Student Exam Review. The answers to all the questions can be found in the Hunter Education Manual. Students must complete the Exam Review and hand it in before the trip to the Calgary Conservation Centre in May.